Sam Scott is probably best-known for his impressive range of Italian varietals under the La Prova label, but the Adelaide Hills winemaker also produces some classic cool-climate wines under his Scott label. This chardonnay, made using fruit from the chilly Piccadilly Valley, is absolutely outstanding. It is thoroughly modern, tight and focused, fruit-driven with citrus and stone fruit notes co-existing happily alongside each other. There is some bright acid backbone and an overall elegance that makes this a pleasure to drink. The fruit is hand-picked, chilled overnight and then whole-bunch pressed directly to old French oak barriques, where it undergoes natural fermentation. It undergoes partial malo but no lees stirring. Clean, crisp, intense and delicious. Pair with roast pork and crackling. $45. www.scottwines.com.au.